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Changing
clutch & brake master cylinders on an X 1/9
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You
can get the CLUTCH master cylinder (M/C) out without removing
the steering column/pedal assembly. You just take off
the lower steering column cover, disconnect the hydraulic
line from the clutch M/C (have something to catch the
fluid), remove the nuts/washers on the two long bolts
and slide them out enough to pull the M/C off the cylinder
rod, then disconnect the hose clamp.
But you WILL have to remove them for the BRAKE M/C (because
the 2 long bolts holding it in place hit the heater unit
while you still have a couple of inches left in the slots
at the brake M/C...(see pic at right)
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Needed:
New master cylinders and clutch slave cylinder (optional)
- see "Notes" below. Towels, coffee
can to catch fluid, good metric socket set with extensions,
shallow, and deep sockets, open-end wrenches, vice
grips, Phillips screwdrivers (one stubby), and trouble
light. A set of ratchet type box-end wrenches comes
in handy if you have them.
Estimated Time:
If everything goes smooth (hey, when was the last time
that happened?) and your kids haven't relocated your
tools, this can easily be done in an afternoon (~3 hours).
But plan on a full Saturday unless you've done it before.
Notes:
Master and slave cylinders can be obtained from
International
Auto Parts (IAP), Vicks,
or other Fiat vendor for around $35 each (or less).
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The
job of replacing both master cylinders can be a real pain
without a little help. Hopefully, with the following guide,
you can make it with as little aggravation as possible...
Ready? Ok - spread
some towels on the driver-side floor and have a coffee
can handy to catch the fluid. Here goes:
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1. Take off the horn button
and remove the steering wheel (one nut, jiggle steering
wheel loose)
2. Take off the lower steering column cover (5 screws)
3. Loosen the sandwich nut on lower steering knuckle
at floor.
4. Remove 4 bolts holding steering column to dash and
pull out/set aside. You'll be able to take off the upper
steering column cover at this time, too.
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5.
Disconnect the 2 brake lines and the one clutch line from
the bottoms of the two junction boxes. You will likely
need vise grips since open end wrenches don't grip well
enough. Pull off the wires from the brake pedal switch.
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6. Disconnect clutch line
from clutch M/C
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7.
Then loosen/remove the two nuts/washers holding the pedal
support bracket to the firewall (Note: these are a PITA
to put back on BTW...I ended up using a short socket and
a dab of bearing grease to hold the washer onto the nut!
You might be able to get a 5-year old to do it, if their
hands are small enough...ha ha)
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8.
Lower pedal bracket enough to remove the 3 hoses to the
clutch and brake M/Cs.
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9.
Bend the metal clasp to get the hoses loose at the front
of the bracket. Then remove the screw from the strap at
the back of the bracket. That screw is another PITA -
on removal and reassembly...
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10.Pull
the pedal assembly out and replace the M/Cs on a bench..
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11.
This step is the one I hate to see in the manuals - Reassemble
in reverse order of above steps...
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12.
Optional - replace clutch slave cylinder before bleeding
clutch system. Click here for Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement
steps
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13.
Top off the reservoirs, bleed the brake and clutch systems,
check for leaks.
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See
below for a trick to make a positive pressure bleed system
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Take
one of those old inner tubes from your kids bikes and
cut out a section around the valve. Then get a hose clamp
to hold in place. Attach a bike pump and have a buddy
pressurize to about 10 psi while you tweak the bleeder
screws on either the clutch slave or one of the brake
calipers. System will be void of all air in about 3 or
4 attempts. (Much faster than the vacuum method, IMHO.)
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